Cycling Scotland's Lost Highways
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Riding the Edge of Nowhere
The quiet roads of Sutherland are a siren’s call to cyclists seeking adventure and solitude. Jack Thurston’s recent book chronicles his journey on these forgotten highways, but what makes this remote corner of Scotland so alluring – and challenging?
Scotland’s vast wilderness has long been a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts. However, the allure of its most rugged terrain is not just about scenery or physical challenge. It’s also about access: the freedom to wander where few others tread, to experience nature untainted by human touch.
In an era dominated by social media platforms showcasing cyclists conquering mountain passes and speeding down bike paths, Sutherland’s rough roads offer a refreshing respite. Here, cyclists can test their mettle against the unforgiving landscape, navigating peat bogs and scrambling up rocky hill tracks that would be impossible for most vehicles.
Thurston’s book is not just about personal adventure; it’s also a historical and cultural exploration of this remote region. The Vikings may have held sway over Sutherland from their stronghold on Orkney, but the landscape itself holds secrets and stories that predate even those early settlers. Dun Dornaigil, an iron-age broch perched above a windswept coastline, is just one example of the ancient monuments scattered throughout this desolate yet beautiful land.
Thurston’s journey begins in Lairg, a hamlet with barely 800 souls that serves as a gateway to Sutherland’s wilderness. This tiny settlement, with its Spar shop and train station, is the last outpost of civilization before cyclists enter the true wilds – a rugged expanse of mountains, peat bogs, and coastline.
The roads leading out of Lairg are a mix of quiet tarmac and rough tracks, often potholed and muddy. Cyclists must be prepared for sudden rain showers that can turn even the most careful plans awry. Yet it’s precisely this unpredictability that makes Sutherland so alluring: the chance to experience Scotland’s wilderness on two wheels.
As cyclists increasingly seek out more challenging routes and greater solitude, Sutherland’s lost highways offer a unique opportunity for adventure-seekers. They also serve as a reminder that there’s still value in exploring off the beaten path – where the only soundtrack is wind, rain, or the occasional distant rumble of thunder.
The quiet roads of Sutherland may be difficult to access, but for those willing to venture into this unforgiving landscape, they hold secrets and stories waiting to be uncovered. Will they prove too wild for even the most seasoned cyclists? Only time – and a willingness to take on the challenge – will tell.
Reader Views
- SBSam B. · deal hunter
It's easy to get caught up in the romance of cycling Scotland's lost highways, but riders need to be aware that many of these routes are little more than dirt tracks masquerading as roads. In reality, some sections can be treacherous, with loose gravel and deep potholes posing a real risk to tire punctures and rider control. While this rugged terrain has its appeal, it's essential for cyclists to carry basic spares and tools, not just in case of emergencies but also to cope with the frequent track closures due to poor weather conditions.
- TCThe Cart Desk · editorial
The allure of Sutherland's lost highways is undeniable, but we mustn't romanticize the harsh realities cyclists face on these roads. In an era where bike-friendly infrastructure is increasingly prevalent, it's surprising how little attention has been paid to the maintenance of Scotland's rural roads. The condition of these routes can be treacherous, with potholes and mud making even a skilled rider vulnerable to accidents. It's not just the scenery that's wild in Sutherland – it's also the infrastructure, and cyclists would do well to exercise caution when navigating these unforgiving landscapes.
- PRPat R. · frugal living writer
While Jack Thurston's book shines a light on Scotland's lost highways, it's essential not to romanticize these roads as pristine cycling routes for the faint of heart. The reality is that navigating Sutherland's peat bogs and rocky hill tracks demands serious mechanical expertise and emergency planning. Cyclists need to be prepared for bike damage, muddy descents, and potentially treacherous weather conditions. A basic knowledge of map-reading and route-finding skills are also crucial in case of a breakdown or getting lost – luxuries that social media often overlooks when showcasing these routes as idyllic adventures.